NorskAlf Christian Losvar tells his story from offroadfinnmark 2008
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In the winter of 2007-8 I was introduced to the plans to arrange a spectacular and exciting cycling race on Finnmarksvidda, Finnmark's mountain plateau. Jørund and some of his colleagues at Finnmark University College were making plans for a competition that was to be different from all other well-established national and international races. Finnmark's unique nature was to occupy center stage in a race in which the physical and psychological challenges would separate the grains from the wheat in the rank and file of MTB cyclists; a one-stage race in which the competitors themselves decide how much time they should set aside for resting. The trajectory was to wind its way through large parts of Finnmarksvidda; its mountain cabins were to be used as checkpoints and, when convenient, resting places. |
The trajectory manager
Because of my local knowledge and cycling skills, I was asked to design the race trajectory. As a Finnmark "thoroughbread" and cyclist I agreed to do it; this, I saw, could be a golden opportunity to contribute to something in which I really believed. I've spent a great deal of time cycling across Finnmarksvidda in recent years, experiencing the wide range of delights it can offer MTB cyclists. The sensation of riding old tractor paths and partly overgrown tracks for hours, seeing no signs of habitation or other people, is a magnificent experience. Cycling below the midnight sun surrounded by grazing reindeer is a pleasure that cannot be offered by many other races.
In early winter I drew up a continuous route containing a maximum of path cycling and a minimum of asphalt, working with local people and experienced mountaineers to get advice on paths and cycling possibilities. In many places, questions remained unanswered: I needed to go back to settle them before the start of the competition. By Easter, I had decided on a continuous itinerary of approximately 650 km, the better part of which was located outside highways, with only a few passages that still needed testing! Now I just needed to wait for the snow to melt away in order to conclude my work: time was short in view of changes that needed to be made before the race opening. In addition, I needed to see to it that signposts were placed to point out the right direction whenever the race crossed paths. We would soon find out, however, that such signposts were simply not enough, as in many places the paths have vanished and riders need to consult a GPS or a map and compass. In early summer we were finally able to test the unfinished parts of the trajectory, getting a taste of what offroadfinnmark was to be about. At times, it occurred to us that our race may well have become just a bit too tough...
Support
We were lucky to have Finnmark University College (HiF) as a partner in our work. This also helped us make contact with students who helped us organize the competition. Two of them undertook to plan and oversee the opening ceremony making it a project assignment. It was decided that the race would begin with a prologue competition to a mountain top near Alta. HiF students planned and obtained permits for this race.
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Prologue Only a few years ago I would have shaken my head in disbelief at the notion of cycling all the way up to the old northern lights observatory at Haldde, at almost 900 meters above sea level. Starting from sea level, the distance to the top is approximately 20 km, of which only 2,5 are on flat terrain. The route starts on a tractor path with only a few rocky parts making demands on one's technical abilities; the final kilometer is an extremely challenging steep climb, on very rocky terrain. |
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The observatory at the Haldde summit also evokes an interesting period, when the famous scientist Kristian Birkeland lived there as the head of the work on northern lights observation. Just seeing the buildings themselves are actually worth the climb: it's impossible not to be impressed by what was built here more than a hundred years ago, and on such an exposed location! The amazing natural scenery provides a spellbinding frame for your experience.
On the 25th of July, 2008, at 10 p.m. we were ready for the offroadfinnmark prologue, cycling all the way up to the Haldde summit. The weather gods didn't seem all too friendly this evening, however: a blanket of low, menacing, grey clouds were closing in on the summit. The temperature was around 15° C in the starting area, with the occasional glimpse of sunlight.
The riders started at one-minute intervals. I set out at a moderate pace, and after 10 minutes I passed a rider who had a puncture but no spare tube. I gave him mine and pedaled onwards. Just as I was crossing the tree line I became aware of Daniel Leirbakken, who was approaching from behind together with two other riders. Focusing on not going too fast, I let them overtake me - my intention was to start the race below my maximum effort level, considering the challenges to be dealt with in the coming days. Further up the mountain I discovered that surprisingly many people had made the ascent to cheer us onwards - my mind filled with gratifying thoughts of L'Alpe D'Huez as I pushed upward... A helicopter with a film crew hanging perched circled overhead.
Nobody was able to follow Daniel through the last parts of the race, and he ended up with a clear best time: 56 minutes. My teammate Jørund Greibrokk ended up 3rd, a few minutes behind. The prologue results established the starting order of offroadfinnmark's main race. Daniel and Sven-Tore were due to start 12 minutes before Jørund and myself, followed by a third team consisting of Gerit, Tor Oscar and Lasse, setting out another 20 minutes after us.
The opening ceremony
On Saturday, July 26 we were ready for the opening ceremony and the start of the first offroadfinnmark. The opening was celebrated in Alta's main pedestrian street with a scene and grand festivities. Sámi music and local dancers gilded the race opening. A sizeable crowd attended saw the teams and individual riders presented onstage, and listened to a speech held by the race manager.
This first trial version of offroadfinnmark was intended to prove that this type of competition was possible and had a legitimate place in the bicycle sport. As for myself, I was just a bit skeptical about my own capacity to make it to the end in the appointed time. Be that as it may, we were all set and I was eager to get started on the long race.
With the opening ceremony concluded, the race itself was to start, on the basis of the Prologue results. The first team, with Sven-Tore and Daniel set off at 3 p.m., myself and Jørund started our chase 12 minutes later. Before starting, we had had our lactate and blood sugar levels tested by a research group at HiF who were to do research on some of the participants. Our capacities (Watt resistance level and VO2 max) had been tested prior to the race: these tests would be complemented by heart rate monitoring throughout the race, tests of blood values, blood sugar, fat percentage, lactate controls and, finally, a new capacity test after the race.
We start out at long-distance pace which, in my case, means a pulse rate of 120/130 beats/minute. The terrain is in good condition, despite the considerable rainfalls in the preceding days. I'm a tiny bit worried by a few noises from my new chain while using the small sprockets, but I trust this will eventually get better. I'm considerably more worried by Jørund's choice of bicycle: an ultra light hard tail (gravel) bike with rim brakes and light, shallow tires. Will this bike really hold up in a race like this? I've opted for a full suspension mountain bike with sturdy brakes and coarse tires, and feel pretty sure that the 3 extra kilos will soon pay off.
After a couple of hours I make out a couple of cyclists in the distance, in the middle of a long climb. Timing ourselves in relation to them, we find that we're 7 minutes behind, if this is indeed team 1: we've gained about 5 minutes on them. While I'm feeling extremely spry and easy-going, Jørund signals that we might be going a bit too fast. We have agreed to start the first part of the race at around zone 1 or 2 cycling. This means I need to control myself a bit, settle down and focus on the wonderful natural surroundings of the lovely trajectory. I'm also finding that my choice of bicycle has been perfect: my Scott Spark LTD is ideal for this terrain.
We find ourselves steadily closing in on the two front-runners and, after 4 hours, we overtake them. They're enjoying a food break and we cycle past without stopping. This seems to stress them out quite a bit - I notice that they're up and rolling again after 10 minutes. Then, just what I've been waiting for finally happens - one of Jørund's tires has punctured! The tire itself is torn and needs to be replaced: we put on a new tube and a coarser tire, eager to get going again, but no! A short valve stem gives us extended torment before the tire is full enough. Team 1 is no longer to be seen, they've put considerable distance between us and them...
Having ridden the highest part of this first stretch before, I feel that something is amiss: I just cannot recognize the terrain. Unfortunately, we haven't taken the time to mount a GPS on our bikes as we thought it would be easy enough to find our way through this section. We need to stop and mount a GPS on Jørund's stem. Turning it on, we realize that we had indeed strayed from the trajectory: we ought to have made a different turn a kilometer ago! We decide to head straight for the route; we should come across it after about 5-600 meters. This distance is, however, all ascent, and with no path to follow our progress is slow indeed. When we finally come across the trajectory we calculate that we're roughly half an hour behind team 1. We quicken the pace and make good headway; but while we're descending toward Badderen Jørund suddenly brakes... The GPS has fallen off, and we need to make a U-turn to try and find it! After about 15 minutes I see the GPS lying on the ground. It's to all appearances undamaged and seems to work just fine, but the mood in our two-man team has turned rather sullen and taciturn. We need to focus on getting to Sørstraumen without further disasters. The descent toward Badderen is exciting and I really enjoy myself, even though I sometimes have to wait for Jørund - his rim brakes are simply not fit for this kind of downhill cycling.
The first checkpoint
We arrive at Sørstraumen some 30 minutes after team 1. It's evening, and a bit chilly - we're dying for some hot food and a shower. After eating and washing we need to clean and prepare our bikes, and pack our backpacks for the next stage. Team 1 start our after eating and getting their bikes serviced. After giving blood, urine and lactate samples, and answering research questions, Jørund and I decide to get some sleep. After a few hours' rest we have another meal before setting out on the next stretch, with 100 long kilometers in tough terrain. We start in the morning sun at 4.30 a.m., in the enchanting atmosphere of the majestically quiet Kvenangen fjord. Our optimism is back with a vengeance and we're ready to roll!
Climbing
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The way up from Kvænangsbotten is a gruelling 20 km climb from 0 to 900 meters, including a few downhill sequences. This stretch is largely on gravel and construction tracks, providing few technical challenges. On the mountain plateau itself, the terrain becomes considerably trickier, and we cycle in very barren surroundings. Luckily, the northern wind is heading our way and gives us some assistance. Our legs feel springy and the mood is high; we're enjoying racing as we make our way through flocks of reindeer. In the afternoon the sun comes through and the temperature rises; we make a short stop to eat and take off some clothes. The stillness and the beauty of the landscape really work on you in a place like this. For a moment, it feels rather strange to think that we're part of a cycling race in this tranquil and idyllic place. |
Reisavann
Arriving at Biedjovaggi and its shut-down mines, we hook up with a smooth gravel path and embark on a fast-paced stretch, until we reach another more technical piece of terrain which leads to the lake Reisavann. Reisavann is where the next checkpoint is located, and is swarming with mosquitoes! The temperature is between 15-18 degrees and there's very little wind: it's high time to smear ourselves thoroughly with mosquito repellent. We order some warm food and get started on washing and overhauling our bicycles.
We get full service in the cabin: a table full of delicious food. I straight away swallow two raw eggs, followed by a marvelous salmon soup. We prepare food packs with bread, meat spreads and Nutella, and after an hour's pause we're ready to start anew. We're to ride 35 km to Kautokeino, our next resting place.
The Arctic Trail
From Reisavann we follow the old path of Nordkalottleden (The Arctic Trail), which starts at the Bothnian Bay, traversing Sweden, Finland and the North Norwegian coast. We start on a a single track path, but the trail becomes increasingly overgrown and we end up cycling in partially untouched nature. The Arctic Trail is marked out by red spots on rocks and stone beacons. At one point, we stray from the itinerary and need to make a detour before finding our way back. 10 km on, the track becomes more distinct and the cycling more easy-going, apart from a few technical passages in which we cross swamps and small creeks. After 3 hours the path broadens and gradually becomes a nice, swift-moving, mountain track. Now we're rolling at 25 to 40 km/h. The rest of the way to Kautokeino is on asphalt.
Kautokeino
We've now laid 140 km behind us since setting out from Sørstraumen at 4.30 a.m.. We arrive in Kautokeino at 9 p.m. I feel fine and my legs work as they should, but I'm a bit tired. The cycle works fine, apart from a bad front brake which needs fixing. Jørund's brake pads are worn out and need to be replaced. The leaders have arrived at 5, and we're still 4 hours behind. Reportedly, they barely stopped in Kautokeino and resumed the race after just 2 hours. They have now cycled without resting since the start in Alta; we're increasingly convinced that they will not be able to sustain this pace.
We have warm Bidos, a Sámi reindeer meat soup with plenty of lard. If you've never tried it, you've certainly missed out on something very tasty! In Kautokeino, the race management has ordained a compulsory 2-hour rest which includes a medical check.
The cycles are repaired, food packs are made and, after a warm shower, two freshly made beds are waiting for us. It takes me quite a while to fall asleep. I wake up after 3 hours and note that Jørund is sleeping. I get up and go to the bathroom; when I come back, Jørund is awake. We decide to start again. It's 5 in the morning and the low-lying sun is brushing against the hills as we cycle out of Kautokeino on the northbound highway.
Masi
After 20 km on asphalt we turn into the old gravel road to Masi. This is Jørund's backyard and he's ahead of me most of the time! We move fast, and reach Masi at 8.30 a.m. The front-runners have rested here and we learn that they have cycled slowly from Kautokeino. At that point, they had cycled 32 hours without resting since the start in Alta. In Masi, they rested for 8,5 hours before resuming the race at 7.30 in the morning. After an hour-long break we leave Masi, 2 hours behind team 1. We both feel very strong, and debate how long it will take us to reach them, and how long before they collapse. The last 3-man team is 4 hours behind us.
We're over-eager to reach the leading team we miss the tiny path which depart from the very conspicuous tractor path that we have followed. After about 5 km we've deviated so much from the route that we need to stop. The GPS has lost the itinerary. Re-loading it we discover that we're heading in the wrong direction and need to go back: to get to Raggis we need to follow the old tourist trail marked with read T's on rocks. The weather is splendid, with 20°C and sunlight.
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Raggis Located deep in the remotest parts of Finnmarksvidda is Raggis, a location with an incredibly lush natural environment and a farming site which is a sight in itself! When we get there, the Raggisjohka creek is running high and we need to cross it. This is a thriller: a strong current, water up to the groin, a mountain bike overhead while balancing on rocks. This creek holds plenty of nice trout and char: but only for those who have time stop for fishing! |
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From Raggis toward Suosjavrre the itinerary follows a nice, hilly tractor path which offers plenty of good cycling. We need to cross another creek, and traverse a wet swamp on a pole bridge: a one-of-a-kind experience.
Suosjavrre
At Suosjavrre mountain cabin food is served outdoors in gorgeous summer weather. We get through the usual procedure of a medical check and energy refill in a jiffy. We're told that the race leaders seem worn out and not very talkative. We're 3 hours behind, and if it hadn't been for our orientation blunders we'd have been a lot closer to them. Our spirits are high and we cycle toward Mollisjok full force, having decided to go all the way to Karasjok without resting. It looks to be a long day! After a brief asphalt stretch from Suosjavrre we enter a tractor path the leads in toward Mollisjok. The varied terrain invites fast-paced path cycling. This route will be a joy for off-road cyclists: you'll wish it never ends...
The front-runners in trouble
Before arriving at Lower Mollisjok, Jørund finds out that the race leaders are in trouble. Sven-Tore has taken a fall and suffered a concussion to his shoulder - he needs to abandon the race. The two had passed Mollisjok and are now heading back to Lower Mollisjok. Daniel asks if he can continue together with us: we naturally say yes to him. Lower Mollisjok is a gem located far into the vidda, where the cabin hosts take good care of tourists and others who travel across the mountain tundra. The likelihood of a good catch in the river or in the nearby lakes is very high. The hosts can offer many beds and a full fare for those who want it.
After a short stop at Lower Mollisjok, Daniel arrives and we head toward Mollisjok together.
Mollisjok
This ancient site, used by Sámi reindeer herders and mountain folks for generations, is part of a network of mountain cabins across Finnmarksvidda. The hosts offer food and accommodation the year round. In the winter, Mollisjok is a natural stop for the many skiers cross the vidda from Alta to Karasjok, or the other way round. In the summer, with fewer travelers around, there are fewer guests.
In the cabin we take a short pause for an energy refill. Marinated Finnmark salmon is on the menu: absolutely delicious! We gorge ourselves, securing much needed energy deposits for the next stretch towards the checkpoint at Ravnastua.
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Hundvidda In order to reach Ravnastua we need to get past Hundvidda - The Dogs' Plain - which locals regard as almost impossible to cross in the summer. Those who have traversed it on a 4-wheeler say it's hopelessly bumpy. We cross cloudberry marshes so plentiful of semi-ripe berries that we feel like stopping to lie down and wait for vidda's gold to ripen... but we need to move on! |
Ravnastua
The last kilometers before Ravnastua offer exciting track cycling, and Daniel and myself step up the pace for a little internal competition. To my chagrin, he sneaks past just before we arrive at the cabin! Just as at all other checkpoints, we get a warm welcome and full support. The cabin hosts have visitors and we stop for a short chat. They're heading for Alta along the old postal route via Bojobeski, another one of our checkpoints. We ask them to say hello to the Bojobeski crowd.
At one o'clock at night, well fed with warm food and fresh drink, we're hoping for a comparatively easy ride to Karasjok. The temperature is now only +2 degrees and a low-lying fog casts a magic spell on the landscape. The fatigue is slowly gaining a foothold in my body and a warm bed appears increasingly alluring... The top priority right now is to get the body back into gear and to up the tempo to regain the body heat. Daniel makes the most of some of the turns to give a demonstration of how to ride on the back wheel. As for myself, I have my hands full with struggling upwards on the smallest sprocket and to overcome the obstacles ahead. As North Norway's decidedly best highway and off-road cyclist Daniel gives ample evidence that his balancing skills are first-class.
On the way down toward the highway, the tractor path includes an exhilarating stretch where the full suspension gets to show its value. The last 10 km toward Karasjok follow the highway, and Jørund and Daniel feel fresh enough to take on a few duels in the gentle slopes. I feel no need to get involved...
Karasjok
At last, 22 hours after leaving Kautokeino we've arrived in Karasjok! Before starting out, my own (secret) goal was to make it to this checkpoint. Now we're here and I'm doing fine. Again, we go through the motions - in succession: a shower, urine tests, blood tests, a meal, preparation for the next stage, bike maintenance. Sadly, Daniel is suffering from an inflammation in the Achilles tendon, and is considering whether to continue or not. After consulting with a physician he decides to step off the race.
After a longer rest of about 6 hours we rise and get ready to continue. Daniel's Achilles problems have gotten worse and continuing is now definitely not an option. Jørund and myself are feeling fine and confident that we'll be alright. The team behind us arrives in Karasjok less than an hour after we have left; they have opted to rest in Mollisjok. In Karasjok, however, all riders need to stay for a compulsory 2-hour rest, making themselves available for the press.
Technical problems
Departing from Karasjok we first enter pine wood and then birch forest. We're heading toward Valjok, partly on tractor paths, partly on single track and also on some untouched terrain. While crossing a marshy area, cycling through some shrubbery, there is a cracking noise from Jørund's rear gear, which has gotten stuck and ruptured the gear lever. Fortunately, Jørund has brought a spare one precisely because this might happen. We fix it, and get going again. We're now in an area where bears have recently been seen and we see an airplane overhead surveying the area, presumably bear-spotting.
Approaching Valjok we enter a new stretch of fast-pace downhill riding; my feet ache a bit after being inert for such a long time.
Valjok
The pre-19th century wooden houses are idyllically situated on the shore of the Tana River. The buildings are protected and considered to be the oldest buildings in Finnmark; they were saved from the German burnt soil-tactics by the Russian army's rapid advance at the end of World War II. In order to escape them, the Germans fled headlong across the mountains toward Skoganvarre.
In the main building a lovely table has been spread for us, with vegetables, fried eggs and great service. We've been short of vegetables, and the mere sight of them really wets our appetites. A giant lavvo (Sami teepee) has been prepared with beds in case we need some rest. It is with a somewhat heavy heart that we set out again from Valjok; a brief shut-eye here would have been wonderful. But it's 7.30 p.m. and we need to get going toward Skoganvarre.
Skoganvarre
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We wade across the Valjohka which is unusually deep for the season, due to the recent heavy rains. The feeling of getting close to finalizing the race brings fresh inspiration, and we really enjoy ourselves now as we cycle up the mountain. Having made our way all the way up, we leave the tractor road for a path that runs along a shut-down telegraph line, winding through a varied landscape with bits of easy terrain and a few easily crossed marshes. |
| After a few hours' rest, a shower, food and service we're ready to set out on the last stage, from Skoganvarre across the mountain plains to Alta. There are 110 km to go and we're still in high spirits. The other team arrived 4 hours after we did, and will start 6 hours behind from Skoganvarre. I ride with an earphone and a microphone for telephone communication, staying in touch with people I know who are able to follow the race on the internet and keep us updated. We feel rather sure that this is going our way, but there's still a long distance ahead and many things may happen. |
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After a long climb on nice tracks and a tractor path we've arrived at Livnasjavrre, a big lake at 500 meters above sea level. The surrounding mountains are beautiful, a perfect example of Finnmarksvidda's varied landscape. The path by the lake shore is partly overgrown, but when we get to the west end we're on a good path again. Jørund is silent and starts lagging behind a bit, we're going at low speed and I try to cheer him up. We gradually lose pace and need to stop; Jørund appears slack and is feeling weak; he's running empty. He eats and drinks a lot, and we move the heaviest items in his backpack into mine - tires, tools and other heavy equipment. |
| We're rolling again, but slowly. After another half hour, at Cieknalis, we need to stop again; Jørund can't go on and needs to rest. We agree that he needs some energy gel, and to put on some extra clothing and lie down for a maximum of 10 minutes. I time his rest and sit down while he rests. When time is out we need to move on; he shouldn't remain in that position for long lest he should start freezing. We need to walk at first and I move both bicycles. Another half hour on, however, Jørund starts talking again, I'm seeing positive signs and become a bit more optimist about the final part of the race. We sit ourselves down on the bicycles again and start struggling forward again. From Cieknalis to Stabbursdalen there's a high altitude itinerary which seemed endless today. Descending toward Stabbursdalen we follow a path across a marshy terrain which really takes its toll. |
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From Stabbursdalen we leave the main trajectory and head south at reasonable speed toward Bojobæski, our next checkpoint.
The final stretch
Bojobæski is the site of one of the cabins of the Norwegian Trekking Association's (DNT). We're given a hearty welcome by one of the mainstays of Alta's Trekking Club, Jahn Åge Suhr. He wants to know what took us so long; they were expecting us several hours ago. We decide to take a good rest, after having a heavy meal and dealing with the compulsory checkpoint chores. After a few hours the next team arrives and the tension rises. They seem quite worn out and they too have struggled through the last stretch. A little more than 50 km remain of the race; this can become very exciting. We pass two pleasant hours with a rambling conversation before anyone starts to prepare for departure. We're ready and waiting for the right time to move; finally, we understand that they're preparing to start out again.
There's no time to waste. We're ready and set out to ascend toward the snowy mountain and a strenuous climb is ahead of us. At the summit we can see that the others are approaching and we agree to go a bit faster. I increase my intensity level to zone 3 and 4 and feel comfortable with it. Jørund has adjusted the stem of his bicycle and has an easier ride as a result. We're going fast. This stretch consists of fast-paced track cycling all the way to the Joatka lake, where we cross the road to the Alta Dam Construction, with approximately 30 km left, half of which is single track and the rest a gravel road. As we approach the end of the race we encounter several film teams and some photographers who have gone to the mountains this morning. It's still only 7 a.m.
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I'm starting to feel a lump in my chest: my feeling of satisfaction about having made it through this test race is indescribable. After so many hours on the bicycle seat, and all the amazing experiences we've had, this will be a huge experience. Who would ever have thought this was actually possible? Such thoughts rush through my head when, in my eagerness to get to our goal, I momentarily lose concentration. In our swift descent down the slate mountain the unthinkable happens: a slab of slate moves shifts and I lose control. To this day I'm not sure what happened, but Jørund tells me I was tossed off the bicycle and landed sideways in the slate quarry. I manage to stand up; a bit dizzy, but with no physical injuries apart from a few bruises. My bike is undamaged, but there's a rift in my rucksack. We go slowly down the last part of the slate quarry. |
An hour after we cross the goal line, the next team arrive: they're very happy just to have made it all the way back!
Now we're starting to plan for next year's offroadfinnmark: that's when things will get really serious!
This narrative is based on impressions and recollections from the race. It's been a challenge for me to express some of the impressions that still remain with me. Apart from these recollections I feel the race helped me develop both physically and psychologically. The physiological bit was confirmed by the tests performed by the scientists at the Sports Department of Finnmark University College. After the race I experienced a rise in physical shape that lasted throughout the summer and autumn, when I achieved results way above my previous level. I finalized the Birkebeiner race with a solid personal best. Jørund's experience has been very similar.
Alf Christian Losvar, Alta
